Ssam is a smart-looking, authentic Korean grill, with a high proportion of expats among its regular customers & the emphasis on traditional barbecues. Ask the helpful, hyper-efficient owner for guidance, or simply go with the flow by ordering marinated beef & pork, grilled on a hotplate at the table: jumul leok sirloin is rubbed with sesame oil, salt & garlic; bulgogi is prepared using sweet soy sauce. Beef ribs & pork belly are also popular, & a side of glass noodles seems de rigueur. The ‘ssam’ part comes when you wrap the smoky grilled meat in a crunchy lettuce leaf with spring onion. Korean flatbread with oysters & spring onion makes a soothing accompaniment, & kimchi adds the necessary punch. Drink a fragrant white wine, Korean beer or ginseng tea with honey.