Sleek & chic, Isarn is an attractive modern Thai restaurant with equally appealing service. For a zingy midday fix, try the Khantok lunch sets (perhaps char-grilled pork with chilli, garlic & lime; tom yam mushroom soup; steamed jasmine rice; & fresh fruit): excellent value at £6.90. The usual stir-fries & noodle dishes are all present & correct on the full menu, but there are also more original offerings – say, roasted baby chicken with chilli & tamarind, or chargrilled lamb chop with Kaffir lime leaf & red curry. Seafood is a particular strength: from fried red snapper with sweet chilli sour sauce to lobster tail & Chinese celery stir-fry in yellow curry. Wines are well chosen, if a little pricey, & desserts are both traditional (mango with black sticky rice) & fanciful (strawberry Champagne jelly).