Bright-orange paper lampshades in the window cheer up Kiraku’s plate-glass frontage – & there’s plenty more to cheer about within the small, utilitarian interior. Here, your dining companions are likely to include groups of suited Japanese salarymen, young local couples or single sushi fans watching football on TV as they nibble at the bar. The menu covers much of the Japanese repertoire, from the commonplace to the esoteric – so pick your way through tuna or salmon sashimi, go off-piste with flying fish roe & sea urchin, or plump for something cooked – say a katsu curry or grilled eel & egg on rice. Alternatively, consider the selection of fascinating specials – perhaps monkfish liver with ponzu or deep-fried fishcake with cheese. ‘Kiraku’ in Japanese means ‘relax & enjoy’: a pithy summation of its appeal.