都京 Capitol

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For the last 11 years the Tam family have been the custodians of the torch in so far as Chinese cuisine at the Capitol is concerned. That they have been successful in doing this is borne out by the clutch of awards which have come their way.

Occupying a magnificent site in Hamilton Square the surroundings are that of a Chinese Art Gallery. The restaurant kitchens are spotless, a positive incitement to eat and you can start with plates of dim sum at £18.95 before moving on to the customary wide range. I was particularly taken with the lamb in Mongolian style, a slightly sweet and hot dish that had a richness to it which left me ready for the sweet and sour fillet of fish.

I am one of these heathen people that like a savoury at the end of a meal in Chinese as well as English, so a quarter of crispy Peking duck just rounded things off properly for me. When asking for this I get far more eyebrows raised in Western restaurants than Oriental. Perhaps the latter are immune to the vagaries of the Brits.

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